If you’re dreaming of a white Christmas – or indeed a white January, February or March – the Canadian Rockies are the perfect choice.
With an international airport on your doorstep, spectacular mountain scenery, infrastructure built to handle winter, and plenty of charm, the Canadian Rockies are one of the best places to experience snow, winter or a magical Christmas.
We spent a glorious year living in Calgary and frequently visited the mountains, so you can trust me when I say: it’s a truly beautiful part of the world.
We recently returned with our family to spend a week in the Canadian Rockies in early December. Coming from Australia, where Christmas unfortunately falls in the middle of summer, it was a real novelty for the kids to experience Christmas activities in the setting they were intended: the snow.
Here’s how we spent our week – I hope it inspires you to take a similar trip!
Our itinerary:
- 2 nights in Calgary
- 1 night in Emerald Lake Lodge
- 1 night in the Fairmont Lake Louise
- 3 nights in Banff
Preparing for the Weather in Calgary
As every Calgary resident will tell you – it can snow every month of the year.
But Calgary in winter is really something to behold. With at least a six solid months of snow and temperatures regularly falling below -10 degrees, this is a city built for extreme cold.
Fortunately, it’s tempered by the Chinooks – warm winds that raise the temperature by 20 degrees. Having lived through a Calgary winter, I can tell you that Chinooks are a very welcome reprieve (even if they bring their own problems, like sinus headaches!).
The city’s infrastructure is excellent, and well-equipped for the cold weather. Cars have winter tyres, streets and pavements are quickly cleared and gritted, car parks and train station platforms are heated, and downtown there’s a series of elevated indoor skywalks connecting the buildings so you barely have to go outside.
Winter clothing is also serious business. Snow boots are essential, along with hats, gloves and thermals. As a visitor, you’ll need to be properly prepared – but luckily, you can pick up everything you need very affordably at Walmart or Canadian Tire (they sell more than just tyres!).
Once you’re kitted out, you’ll be able to enjoy the snow.
Winter Driving
If you’re visiting during the winter, make sure to hire a car with winter tyres – not just all-season ones. Winter tyres provide essential grip and peace of mind, especially if you’re not used to driving in the snow.
On the roads, take your time and go slowly. Calgary does an excellent job of keeping the roads safe, but lane markings can be hidden by the snow and driving can be unnerving at first.
My favourite winter-in-Calgary story is the time we were supposed to be going up to Banff for the weekend, but even the locals told us to stay home due to a blizzard. Driving home from work in that blizzard was definitely not fun. At one point, I pulled over thinking I was lost because everything was covered in white and looked the same. In fact I was only 200 metres from home!
The moral of the story? Always allow contingency in your travel plans in case of blizzards. Yes the city copes extremely well with bad weather, but if there’s a blizzard you need to stay put until it has passed – regardless of where your next hotel booking is. They don’t happen often, but when they do you’ll need to have a backup plan. Keep an eye on the weather forecast throughout your trip so you can plan ahead if needed.
If you’re looking to rent a car in Calgary, you can compare all the rental suppliers and get the best prices on Discover Cars – click here for the best rates.
Calgary
Calgary is an affluent city in Southern Alberta, with strong Western heritage. Every July. the city hosts the annual Calgary Stampede – a massive event with rodeos, chuckwagon races and agricultural exhibitions. During Stampede week the whole city dons cowboy boots and gets into the spirit.
Returning to Calgary was a real nostalgia trip for us. We visited our old house, wandered our former neighbourhood, revisited favourite haunts, and showed the kids where they might have gone to school had our lives taken a different path. But this time, with the benefit of being here on holiday and bringing the kids for the first time – we got to enjoy it as tourists too.
Calgary has a major international airport, with flights from Europe and the USA. While there are no direct flights from Australia, you can easily fly into Vancouver and connect to Calgary, or fly via the USA.
We stayed at the Best Western Port O’Call – a large, comfortable motel with an indoor water park. Click here for more Calgary hotel options. Or if you prefer to stay in a vacation rental, there are lots of options on Vrbo.
Aside from a whole heap of trips down memory lane, and getting used to the winter driving again, here’s how we spent our three nights in Calgary.
Calgary Zoo ZOOLIGHTS
Running from November to January every year, this night-time event transforms Calgary Zoo with festive light displays. You won’t see any animals, but you’ll find Santa’s grotto, an elf forest, fire pits, and ice skating.
Heritage Park – Once Upon A Christmas
Wagon rides, carolers, a huge indoor Christmas market and delicious hot chocolate – all in a beautiful setting at Heritage Park. You can go inside the historic buildings, see miniature Christmas village displays and warm up with some mulled wine in the market.
This event only runs on weekends in December.
Christmas Holiday Train
The CPKC Holiday Train travels across Canada and the USA, raising money and spreading joy in its wake. It’s Canada’s version of the Coca-Cola advert!
In Calgary it stops at the Anderson CTrain Station once in December, with a free concert. It’s a lot of fun to watch the train pull into the station, and it draws huge crowds.
Tobogganing in Nose Hill Park
For a cheap activity that will keep everyone entertained – go to Walmart and pick up a $15 plastic toboggan and plastic snow shovel. Then find a hill and off you go! I can’t tell you how much enjoyment we got from this, and the giggles from the kids as they raced down the hill was well worth it!
Nose Hill Park is a fantastic place to toboggan – it’s a huge city park in the northwest of Calgary with plenty of hills, occasional deer, and great walking trails. Bonus: off-leash areas for dogs!
Where to Eat in Calgary
Our long-time favourite Calgary restaurants are:
Check their websites for individual locations – there are a few of each dotted throughout the city.
Side note: the tap water in Calgary and the Rockies is the best I’ve tasted in the world. It’s cold and fresh and you won’t need to buy any bottled water.
Onwards to the Canadian Rockies
Driving into the mountains from Calgary only takes an hour. On a clear day, the drive is spectacular, and you’ll see the Rockies rise in the distance.
I’m a little biased, but I think the mountain scenery in the Canadian Rockies is the best in the world.
Emerald Lake Lodge
For our first night in the Rockies, we stayed in Emerald Lake Lodge.
In summer, the lake is a stunning shade of turquoise. In December it’s a snowy winter wonderland.
It’s a great place to stay at any time of the year – it was easily the best stay of our whole trip.
The setting in winter, with everything covered in snow (including the lake) and hardly any people around, makes for a such a serene experience. You’ll feel a million miles away from civilisation, and can enjoy some genuine peace and quiet. It’s an unforgettable place to spend the night.
You can spend your time at Emerald Lake walking around the lake, playing in the snow, tobogganing if you find a little hill, spotting giant snowmen, and marvelling at the beauty of the snow-covered streams running into the lake. It’s also a popular spot for cross-country skiing.
There’s an ice bar outside the main lodge, made of – you guessed it – ice, which serves free hot chocolate to guests.
If you’re the sort of person who likes drinking hot chocolate in front of the fire on a cold winter’s day – you’ll be in your element here.
The main lodge is beautiful inside – dark wood, huge log fires and cosy seating. During our day at Emerald Lake, the snow really started to fall. That evening, we had dinner in the lodge in front of the fire, then played cards and drank hot chocolate while the snow fell outside. If there’s anything more magical than that, I’m yet to find it.
The cabins themselves are also lovely – picturesque and well-appointed.
Getting to Emerald Lake Lodge
The only downside to staying at Emerald Lake Lodge is that you can’t drive all the way to your cabin. You have to park a couple of miles away, and they’ll send a shuttle to pick you up.
Yes, it’s a little inconvenient, but it’s absolutely worth it. When you arrive and see the peaceful, car-free setting around the lake, you’ll understand why. It really does add to the sense of solitude and serenity.
Fairmont Lake Louise
Leaving behind Emerald Lake, our next stop was Lake Louise. This is one of the most famous lakes in the Canadian Rockies (although in my humble opinion, it’s nowhere near as beautiful as nearby Moraine Lake – unfortunately inaccessible in winter).
We stayed in the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise – a stunning hotel, sitting right on the banks of the lake. It’s a massive property – very upmarket – and beautifully decorated at Christmas time, with huge Christmas trees and a tunnel of lights.
There weren’t too many activities when we were there in December as it was just the start of their season. But by December the lake is completely frozen, and you can walk across it. You can also walk around the lake and enjoy the views. Once the season kicks off, you can take horse-drawn sleigh rides on the lake, and there’s ice skating, an ice bar and ice sculpture competition after Christmas.
But honestly, my favourite thing to do here was just sit in our beautiful hotel room with it’s huge window, and watch the amazing snowy scene outside.
Dinner options in the Fairmont were limited for families, but after dinner they offer marshmallows by the fire right on the lakeside.
The Fairmont Lake Louise would be a stunning spot for afternoon tea. The only reason we didn’t do this here was because we had another one planned later in the trip – keep reading to find out where!
If you like afternoon tea, have a look at some other amazing places to enjoy it here.
In case you haven’t picked up on this yet – I do miss living in Canada. I love the mountains and really miss them in Australia. Not to mention the cold weather – I miss that too! So I was just happy to be in Canada, and to share it with the kids.
Husky Sledding
We left Lake Louise the next morning and were ready for our next adventure – husky sledding!
There are a couple of different tour operators offering this experience in Banff and Lake Louise, but we chose to drive back to Canmore and join Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours.
It’s only a 20 minute drive from Banff to Canmore, and before our tour we had time to enjoy this beautiful mountain town. We made a beeline for our favourite cafe – Rocky Mountain Bagel Company – for some breakfast, before heading over to the Snowy Owl office to start our tour.
At the office, they’ll kit you out in proper snow gear if you don’t already have it. Be warned: it’s freezing on the husky sledding tour, especially if you’re driving the sled. They’ll insist you hire their hardy winter clothing and you should definitely listen to them.
From there, they take you by bus up the mountain to Spray Valley Provincial Park, where you’ll meet your dogs and get ready for the tour. For our family of four, we had one sled – with one adult driving, and one adult and two kids in the sled. This worked really well for us, as Rich wanted to drive and I was more than happy snuggled in the sled with the kids.
We all loved meeting the dogs, and the staff helped us into the sled and taught the driver a few simple commands, like how to stop, turn corners, and encourage the dogs.
The staff were incredible – doing everything to make sure we had the best possible experience. We were right behind an instructor who guided and encouraged us the whole time.
To reiterate – it was cold. We each wore two pairs of socks and trousers and were covered in a thick blanket and snuggled together in the sled, but even so my feet were absolutely freezing by the end of it.
After the tour you can warm up with hot apple cider and cookies by the fire before the bus takes you back down the mountain. Everyone had a quick snooze on the way back – all that fresh mountain air really takes it out of you!
But what an absolutely fantastic experience, and something we’ll remember for a long time. The kids and I were safely huddled in the sled, giggling the whole time and enjoying the ride. It was a mix of serenity, exhilaration and pure joy. Watching the dogs do what they love, and getting to experience the scenery this way – it really is a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
It’s expensive at $840 for the sled, but if you can afford it, it’s worth every penny just for the memories you’ll make. The guides really look after you – this is a 5 star experience and one of the best winter activities in the Canadian Rockies.
If you’re an animal-lover, check out my articles on farms and zoos for lots more day trip ideas.
Banff
We spent the last portion of our Canadian Rockies adventure in Banff.
Banff is a very pretty town and ski resort with the mountains as its backdrop, right in the heart of Banff National Park. We spent many weekends in Banff when we lived in Calgary, in all seasons, but I’ll say that winter in Banff is easily my favourite. There are fewer crowds, and the atmosphere in town is incredible – it makes for a beautiful winter weekend.
In Banff we stayed at the Mount Royal Hotel – a modern hotel in a very central location. Click here for more accommodation options in Banff. Or if you prefer to stay in a vacation rental, there are heaps of options on Vrbo.
Here’s how we spent our 3 nights in Banff.
Banff Town
Banff town itself is beautiful. It’s bigger than you might expect, but the main street – with it’s shops, restaurants, twinkling lights and mountain backdrop – is unforgettable. Make sure to spend some time just wandering around the town, browsing the shops – there’s even a Christmas store!
Banff Gondola
Soaring 2,000 feet to the top of Sulphur Mountain in just eight minutes, the Banff Gondola offers incredible views. Personally, I didn’t enjoy the gondola ride itself – it felt a little too precarious for me, but I will concede that the views on the way up, and especially from the top, were spectacular.
You’ll get epic views of the Canadian Rockies, with the town of Banff nestled far below.
For discounted ticket prices on the Banff Gondola – click here.
Fairmont Banff Springs
The Fairmont Banff Springs is a luxury resort styled after a Scottish castle. It’s just outside Banff town—not the most convenient location for staying, but absolutely worth visiting.
The interiors are opulent, and the dining is wonderful. And then there’s the afternoon tea. What is it about Fairmont hotels? They just know how to do a proper afternoon tea! We spent a lovely afternoon wandering around the castle and enjoying a festive afternoon tea, which was delicious.
Both the Fairmont Banff Springs and Lake Louise hotels are destinations in their own right. They’re luxury options and definitely not cheap, but they make for memeorable places to stay.
Bow Falls and Vermilion Lakes
From the Fairmont, we did some scenic driving around Bow Falls – frozen solid in winter – and Vermilion Lakes, where we saw people ice skating on the lake. Naturally, we squeezed in a bit more tobogganing too!
Cascade of Time Garden
These gardens are located in front of the Parks Canada office, itself a beautiful stone building. In the winter, the tiered gardens and pathways are lit up with illuminations telling the story of magical animals. You’re given a lantern to carry along the trail, with fire pits dotted around to warm up. This is a free activity.
Johnston Canyon
You’ll need crampons for this walk to a frozen waterfall in Johnston Canyon, as the trail can be icy. We bought cheap crampons from Amazon and they worked well – they slip over your snow boots, and are good enough for the one time we used them.
It’s a two-mile round trip along suspended catwalks through the canyon. There was one section where the trail was very slippery even with the crampons, but otherwise it’s a straightforward walk for everyone. In summer, this trail leads to a raging waterfall; in winter, the waterfall is frozen on the outside but still raging behind the ice – pretty cool!
Johnston Canyon is on the Bow Valley Parkway, a scenic back road connecting Banff to Lake Louise. It’s well maintained in the winter, but the snow started falling very heavily by the time we finished, and we were glad to get back on the main roads.
Sleigh Ride
On a working ranch just outside of Banff, you can take a horse-drawn sleigh ride through the meadows. It was a beautiful setting, and with the bells jingling on the horses it made for a very Christmassy feel – but it was so cold. Honestly, we were just too cold to enjoy it properly. The best part was defrosting in the lodge afterwards with some more hot apple cider!
Cold or not – it’s undoubtedly a special experience. Book your tickets here.
Wildlife
You can still spot wildlife in the Canadian Rockies during the winter – even though the bears are asleep! If you drive up to the Mount Norquay Lookout, you’re likely to see bighorn sheep, in fact, they’ll probably be blocking the road!
We also spotted caribou just outside of Banff town – very fitting for Christmas time.
Where to Eat in Banff
Our favourite restaurants to eat in Banff are:
- Grizzly House – a phenomenal dark and wintry atmosphere, and excellent cheese fondue. Delicious, warming and hearty.
- The Maple Leaf – an upmarket Canadian-themed restaurant.
A Final Note on Our Canadian Rockies Trip
And this concluded our time in the Canadian Rockies. It hadn’t been without it’s ups and downs – we all got colds from the thin mountain air, and our car had tyre pressure issues that necessitated air top-ups at gas stations in -20 degrees. But that’s just part of travel – these things happen. They’re minor irritants, nothing more. Consider them part of the adventure and carry on.
From Calgary, we flew down to Las Vegas to defrost in the desert sunshine before heading home to Brisbane. I have many thoughts about Las Vegas and Disneyland which I will share very soon, so make sure you subscribe so you don’t miss the next posts from Tea Room Travels!
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